After a long session on the paddle ski, he ditched it on the beach and took to the surf board. Within a jiffy he was behind the waves and waited for the perfect one – ala Kelly Slater! The waves broke right for him. All he had to do was to paddle hard enough to catch it!
Then it happened…the perfect wave came and his little arms flashed like windmills to get into the wave! He took it and rode and rode and rode almost for 40 seconds – like those magical rides at Jay Bay’s Point or Super Tubes!
When he bailed out of the wave he threw both his hands up in the air and let out an elated scream of utter joy! I could almost hear him say (like he normally does): ‘this was the best wave of my life! (Like Wing Nut and his friend in Endless Summer normal do).
Without hesitation he turned the nose of the board around and paddled back in. To our amazement the next wave was just as perfect and he caught it again and rode it all the way to the beach. Then another and another one!
The ocean then offered a time for him to catch his breath and a lull in the set of waves came for a while. He sat out there on his board – not a care in this world.
Then the moment came that I will never forget as long as I live: a seal took the next wave and surfed past Hilton, turned and stuck his head out of the water and looked at him on his board. He was close to him. And then the seal leaped! High into the air it went and dived back in, like Dolphins do, all around Hilton in a 270 degree circle!
The absolute joy of creation seemed tangible at that moment. The seal smiled and wiggled his moustache! The sheer exuberance of being alive in God’s creation exploded in our sight!
Nola and I were close to tears sitting under the umbrella in the shade, watching this spectacle of joy.
‘You can see God’s hand in creation!’ Nola quipped.